How to Retube a RIB: The Complete Guide to Hypalon Tube Replacement
When to Retube Your RIB
Most owners consider a retube when the existing tubes are no longer reliable and repairs are either failing or no longer cost-effective. The key starting point is the hull: if the hull is structurally sound, a full retube is often a straightforward decision.
The most common reasons for a RIB retube are:
As a rough guide: Hypalon tubes on a well-maintained leisure boat have a realistic service life of 15–25 years in the UK. PVC and PU tubes typically age faster, especially in high UV and salt environments, and are often more difficult to repair reliably as they get older.
Repair or Retube — How to Decide
This is the first question to answer before spending money. The right answer depends on the material type, the extent of the problem and the age of the fabric.
| Situation | Likely Route | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Single puncture, tube otherwise sound | Repair | Localised, clean problem on good material |
| Multiple patches already present | Consider retube | The tube is telling you it is reaching end of life |
| Seam failing on Hypalon tube | Repair or partial replacement | Hypalon seams are repairable if the fabric is still sound |
| Seam failing on old PVC or PU tube | Retube | Adhesive on aged PVC/PU rarely bonds reliably; more seams will follow |
| Outer coating delaminating or weave exposed | Retube | Material has lost structural integrity; repairs will not hold |
| Slow leak with no visible source | Assessment first | Source needs identifying before deciding. Fabric porosity across a large area points to retube. |
| UV damage reducing fabric strength | Retube | Structurally weakened fabric is a safety issue and cannot be repaired across the whole tube |
If you are not sure, send photos of the tube to Ribcollar with the boat make, model and length. We can usually advise on repair vs retube from photos before you commit to anything. See also: RIB Repairs.
Hull Assessment — the Starting Point
Before specifying a new tube, the hull needs to be assessed. A retube is only a sound investment if the hull itself is worth the spend.
The key checks are:
- Structural integrity of the GRP hull — no major delamination, severe cracking or water ingress into the laminate
- Condition of the tube flange or hull bonding surface — must be sound and cleanable
- Transom condition — if the transom is soft or showing water damage, that should be addressed before or alongside the retube
- Console, steering, electrics and engine condition — a sound hull with a worn-out mechanical fit-out may not justify a premium retube specification
At Ribcollar, we assess the hull as part of the initial review. Minor GRP repairs to the flange area can often be carried out as part of the retube job. More significant structural work is flagged before the tube is specified.
Tubes typically last 15–25 years on a well-maintained boat. A hull in good condition is worth retubing. A hull with structural problems is not a retube candidate until those problems are addressed — and in some cases, the hull's condition makes a retube an uneconomic option.
Fabric Choice — Hypalon, PVC or PU
Three main materials are used for RIB tube manufacture. For replacement work and retubing, Hypalon (Orca CSM/CR) remains the preferred choice at Ribcollar and across most of the professional retube trade.
| Material | Construction | UV Resistance | Repairability | Typical Life |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hypalon (Orca CSM/CR) | Glued seams | Excellent — CSM compound | Very good — repairable at most workshops, even after many years | 15–25 years |
| PVC | Welded or glued | Poor — no UV barrier in base material | Harder as material ages — adhesive less reliable on old PVC | 8–15 years |
| Polyurethane (PU) | Welded or glued | Good — better than PVC | Fewer workshops carry out PU repair — limited specialist availability | 10–20 years |
Ribcollar builds replacement tubes in Orca Hypalon — either Orca 828 (standard, up to ~7m) or Orca 866 (heavyweight, larger and commercial boats). The key reasons for this:
- Hypalon remains repairable by any competent workshop 10–15 years after fitting
- The CSM compound gives reliable UV and weathering resistance for boats stored outside
- Colour and finish options are wider than any other material for retube work
- Orca fabric carries ISO 6185 and SOLAS ISO 15372 certification
For more on material choice, see: What material is your RIB tube made from? and Orca 828 vs 866 explained.
Ribcollar works exclusively in Hypalon — in both the manufacture and repair of RIB collars and tubes. We do not use PVC or PU. This is a deliberate decision based on long-term performance: Hypalon remains repairable by any competent workshop many years after fitting, which matters to the owners and operators who have to look after the boat for decades. It is also the number one choice for commercial operators, who need a fabric that is reliable, serviceable and does not let them down in service. For both of those reasons, Hypalon is our default fabric and the only material we use.
The RIB Retube Process — Step by Step
The boat comes in for assessment. We look at the hull condition, existing tube, attachment method and any flange damage. At this stage we also confirm the tube layout, material grade, colour, finishes and all fittings required for the job.
If the boat is already on file in our pattern database, we can work from existing templates. If not, we assess and pattern the hull before manufacture begins.
The old tube is removed from the hull. Most RIB tubes are bonded to the hull flange, so removal requires heat and careful lifting to avoid damaging the GRP. The pace of this work is set by the hull condition — a well-bonded old tube on a clean hull takes longer than a tube that has already partially separated.
With the old tube off, the hull bonding surface is cleaned and prepared. Old adhesive is removed. Any flange damage is repaired at this stage. The bonding surface needs to be clean, sound and properly keyed before the new tube goes on.
The Orca Hypalon fabric is inspected and laid out. At Ribcollar, tube panels are cut on CNC equipment to the pattern for the boat. CNC cutting gives consistent, accurate panel edges which are essential for the seam preparation and bonding stages that follow.
All seam edges are prepared by sanding (abrading) and cleaning before adhesive is applied. This is one of the most important stages in tube manufacture. Hypalon forms a mechanical bond — the surface must be properly keyed and clean for the adhesive to work correctly. Skipping or rushing this stage is the main cause of seam failure on poorly built tubes.
The tube is assembled by hand. All joints are cold bonded using Bostik 2402 adhesive, the industry standard for Hypalon tube construction. Wooden circular formers are used to maintain shape and fit internal baffles correctly. The main seam is glued last, before testing.
Leafield inflation valves and pressure relief valves are fitted as standard. Fittings including handles, lifelines, wear patches and rubbing strakes are bonded on as part of the assembly process.
The finished tube is pressure tested to confirm it is airtight before installation begins. This catches any seam issues before the tube goes onto the hull, when correcting problems is far more straightforward.
The new tube is marked to show its final position on the hull. Both the tube bonding face and the hull flange receive two coats of adhesive. The tube is then carefully bonded down, working progressively to remove air bubbles and ensure consistent contact along the full flange area.
Assembly and bonding must be done in a warm or heated environment with appropriate moisture control. Temperature and humidity affect adhesive performance and curing time.
The bond is left to cure fully. Once cured, any additional strakes, hardware and finishing details are fitted. The boat is cleaned down, given a final check and made ready for handover.
Fittings and Finish Options
A retube is the best opportunity to specify the protection, layout and fittings that suit the way the boat is used. Standard fit-out on a Ribcollar retube includes Leafield inflation and pressure relief valves, four handles, lifelines and wear patches.
Beyond that, the specification can be adjusted to suit the boat and its application:
DIY vs Professional Retube
"Tube in a box" kits are available from some suppliers for owners who want to self-fit. The tube is supplied pre-built and the owner glues it to the hull themselves. This is a legitimate option for some owners but the decision should be made clearly.
- Hull assessment and flange preparation included
- CNC-cut panels with accurate seam tolerances
- Correct adhesive application and environment control
- Pressure tested before fitting
- Fittings specified for the actual application
- Warranty on the workmanship
- Higher cost than DIY supply-only options
- Lead time — typically 2–6 weeks
- Lower upfront cost
- Can be done at your own pace
- Suitable for experienced owners who understand the process
- Hull flange preparation is the most common failure point
- Adhesive requires correct technique, temperature and moisture control
- No warranty on fitting if you do it yourself
- Getting it wrong is expensive — the tube may need redoing professionally
- Tube fitting is a learned trade; watching videos is not the same thing
DIY fitting is possible for an experienced, patient owner with the right tools, working environment and preparation. For most owners, the cost difference does not justify the risk of a poor fit. A badly bonded tube is at best an inconvenience and at worst a safety issue. If you are not confident, use a professional shop.
How Much Does a RIB Retube Cost?
Cost varies significantly with boat size, tube complexity, fabric grade, fittings and the condition of the existing hull and flange. Here is what affects the price:
The most useful way to understand what your retube will cost is to send us the boat make, model, length and photos. We will provide a written quote based on the actual job rather than a bracket. Contact us at sales@ribcollar.com or call 01935 722988.
A RIB retube is regularly compared against the cost of buying a replacement boat. For a sound hull, a retube at a fraction of new-boat cost is often the better financial decision, particularly where the hull is a well-regarded model that retains value.
How Long Does a RIB Retube Take?
A typical full retube takes two to six weeks from the boat arriving with us to handover, depending on workload and the complexity of the job.
| Factor | Effect on Lead Time |
|---|---|
| Pattern already on file | Quicker — no pattern development time |
| New pattern required | Adds time for assessment and pattern creation |
| Simple tube layout | Faster build |
| Complex collar geometry or multi-tube assembly | Longer build time |
| Hull flange in good condition | Straightforward prep and fit |
| Hull flange repairs required | Adds time for flange work before fitting can start |
| Current workshop schedule | Contact us to confirm current lead times before booking |
The winter months are typically quieter than the spring run-up season. If you are planning a retube ahead of the season, booking early avoids the March–April bottleneck that most retube shops see every year.
Frequently Asked Questions — RIB Retubing
Is a RIB retube worth it?
Can I retube my own RIB?
What glue is used to retube a RIB?
How long does a RIB retube last?
Can you retube any make of RIB?
What is the difference between a retube and a collar replacement?
Do you need to see the boat before quoting?
Ready to get a quote for your retube?
Send us the boat make, model, length and photos of the existing tubes. We will confirm scope, provide a written quote and advise on material grade, colour and fittings for the job.