How to Retube a RIB: Step-by-Step Hypalon (Orca) Tube Replacement Guide

RIB Retubing and Tube Replacement: Complete Guide to Hypalon Tubes

RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) retubing is the process of replacing the inflatable tubes on a RIB, usually when the existing tubes are damaged or worn beyond sensible repair. Done properly, it can transform an older boat and give it a new lease of life, as long as the hull is still in good condition. Retubing is often a cost-effective alternative to buying a new boat when the hull is sound.

Q1. When to retube your Rigid Inflatable Boat

A1. Retubing is worth considering when:

• The tubes are punctured, leaking, or beyond practical repair.
• Older PVC and polyurethane tubes have aged to the point where reliable repairs are difficult. If they are leaking or damaged, retubing is often the only realistic option.
• Hypalon lasts longer, but over time the top layer can delaminate and the fabric becomes porous.
• You want to update an older RIB’s look and performance.
• The hull is in good condition, so the spend makes sense.

Q2. How do I retube my RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat)

A2. Here is a more detailed look at the process.

1. Assessment and preparation

• Hull preparation
  The existing tube is removed from the hull. Most RIB tubes are bonded to the hull, so removal is a slow process. The fabric is lifted by gently heating and pulling.
• Template creation
  If no existing template is available, the old tubes are removed and disassembled to create a new template, then scanned.
• Fabric selection
  We only use Orca Hypalon manufactured by Pennel. It offers long life and remains repairable 10 to 15 years down the line, unlike PVC or polyurethane.
• Fabric inspection and cutting
  The fabric is inspected, then Ribcollar cuts the new tube on CNC equipment.

2. Tube construction

• Seam preparation
  Fabric edges are sanded, cleaned, and prepared. The surface is abraded to ensure the adhesive bonds correctly. This is done using manual sanding and a dedicated sanding machine.
• Gluing
  All joints are cold bonded. The main seam under the rubbing strake is also glued. We use Bostik 2402 for tube assembly.
• Assembly
  The tube is assembled by hand. Wooden circular formers are used to fit the internal baffles. The final stage is gluing the main seam before testing.
• Components
  Collars and tubes are fitted with Leafield inflation and pressure relief valves as standard.
• Cleaning
  Excess adhesive is removed and the tube is fully cleaned, ready for installation.
• Pressure testing
  The finished tube is pressure tested to confirm it is airtight.

3. Tube attachment

• Marking
  The tube is marked to show its final position on the hull.
• Gluing
  The tube and hull are prepared and receive two coats of adhesive.
• Bonding
  The tube is bonded to the hull carefully, removing air bubbles as the work progresses.

4. Finishing

• Curing
  The bond is left to cure. Tube assembly and installation should be done in a warm or heated environment with the right moisture controls.
• Fitting out
  Strakes, handles, and other hardware are fitted as required.

5. Additional services

• While the boat is being retubed, it is common to carry out other work such as hull repairs, engine servicing, and upholstery.

Key considerations

• Cost-effective: a full retube is often cheaper than buying a new RIB.
• Material: high-quality Hypalon is the standard choice for durability and repairability.
• Customisation: you can choose new colours, layouts, and features.
• Cost: varies by boat size, complexity, and fabric specification.
• Provider choice: use an experienced retubing shop with a proven process.
• DIY vs professional: some people buy a “tube in a box” and fit it themselves. Only do this if you have the skills and patience. Tube fitting is a learned trade.
• Timeframe: a full retube often takes a few weeks to a month, depending on workload and the boat.