How to Retube a RIB: The Complete Guide to Hypalon Tube Replacement6
A RIB retube is the process of replacing the inflatable collar or tube system on a rigid inflatable boat. It is one of the most cost-effective ways to extend the life of a sound hull. This guide covers the full process: when to retube, what the work involves, how long it takes, what it costs, and whether to do it yourself or use a professional shop.
Written by Ribcollar Inflatables Ltd, Yeovil – specialists in Hypalon RIB tube manufacture and replacement.
In this guide
1. When to Retube Your RIB
Most owners consider a retube when the existing tubes are no longer reliable and repairs are either failing or no longer cost-effective. The key starting point is the hull: if the hull is structurally sound, a full retube is often a straightforward decision.
The most common reasons for a RIB retube are:
Air leaks
Persistent slow leaks, particularly from seams or areas where the fabric has aged through.
Seam failure
Bonded seams separating, particularly on older PVC and PU tubes where adhesive has degraded.
Delamination
The outer coating separating from the base fabric on Hypalon tubes, making the surface porous.
Fabric porosity
Weave becoming exposed through the outer coating, allowing air permeation across large areas.
Failed repairs
Multiple previous patches no longer holding, or the underlying material no longer able to support adhesive bonding.
Physical damage
Tube too badly torn, abraded or damaged for repair to be a reliable long-term fix.
UV degradation
Severe sun damage reducing fabric strength to the point where the tube is a safety concern.
Refurbishment
Owner wants to update an older hull with a new collar, new colour and new fittings as part of a broader restoration.
As a rough guide: Hypalon tubes on a well-maintained leisure boat have a realistic service life of 15–25 years in the UK. PVC and PU tubes typically age faster, especially in high UV and salt environments, and are often more difficult to repair reliably as they get older.
2. Repair or Retube – How to Decide
This is the first question to answer before spending money. The right answer depends on the material type, the extent of the problem and the age of the fabric.
| Situation | Likely route | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Single puncture, tube otherwise sound | Repair | Localised, clean problem on good material |
| Multiple patches already present | Consider retube | The tube is telling you it is reaching end of life |
| Seam failing on Hypalon tube | Repair or partial replacement | Hypalon seams are repairable if the fabric is still sound |
| Seam failing on old PVC or PU tube | Retube | Adhesive on aged PVC/PU rarely bonds reliably; more seams will follow |
| Outer coating delaminating or weave exposed | Retube | Material has lost structural integrity; repairs will not hold |
| Slow leak with no visible source | Assessment first | Source needs identifying before deciding. Fabric porosity across a large area points to retube. |
| UV damage reducing fabric strength | Retube | Structurally weakened fabric is a safety issue and cannot be repaired across the whole tube |
If you are not sure, send photos of the tube to Ribcollar with the boat make, model and length. We can usually advise on repair vs retube from photos before you commit to anything. See also: RIB Repairs.
3. Hull Assessment – the Starting Point
Before specifying a new tube, the hull needs to be assessed. A retube is only a sound investment if the hull itself is worth the spend. The key checks are:
- Structural integrity of the GRP hull – no major delamination, severe cracking or water ingress into the laminate
- Condition of the tube flange or hull bonding surface – must be sound and cleanable
- Transom condition – if the transom is soft or showing water damage, that should be addressed before or alongside the retube
- Console, steering, electrics and engine condition – a sound hull with a worn-out mechanical fit-out may not justify a premium retube specification
At Ribcollar, we assess the hull as part of the initial review. Minor GRP repairs to the flange area can often be carried out as part of the retube job. More significant structural work is flagged before the tube is specified.
Practical note: Tubes typically last 15–25 years on a well-maintained boat. A hull in good condition is worth retubing. A hull with structural problems is not a retube candidate until those problems are addressed – and in some cases, the hull's condition makes a retube an uneconomic option.
4. Fabric Choice – Hypalon, PVC or PU
Three main materials are used for RIB tube manufacture. For replacement work and retubing, Hypalon (Orca CSM/CR) remains the preferred choice at Ribcollar and across most of the professional retube trade.
| Material | Construction | UV resistance | Repairability | Typical life |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hypalon (Orca CSM/CR) | Glued seams | Excellent – CSM compound | Very good – repairable at most workshops, even after many years | 15–25 years |
| PVC | Welded or glued | Poor – no UV barrier in base material | Harder as material ages – adhesive less reliable on old PVC | 8–15 years |
| Polyurethane (PU) | Welded or glued | Good – better than PVC | Fewer workshops carry out PU repair – limited specialist availability | 10–20 years |
Ribcollar builds replacement tubes in Orca Hypalon – either Orca 828 (standard, up to ~7m) or Orca 866 (heavyweight, larger and commercial boats). The key reasons for this:
- Hypalon remains repairable by any competent workshop 10–15 years after fitting
- The CSM compound gives reliable UV and weathering resistance for boats stored outside
- Colour and finish options are wider than any other material for retube work
- Orca fabric carries ISO 6185 and SOLAS ISO 15372 certification
For more on material choice, see: What material is your RIB tube made from? | Orca 828 vs 866 explained
5. The RIB Retube Process – Step by Step
Initial assessment and specification
The boat comes in for assessment. We look at the hull condition, existing tube, attachment method and any flange damage. At this stage we also confirm the tube layout, material grade, colour, finishes and all fittings required for the job.
If the boat is already on file in our pattern database, we can work from existing templates. If not, we assess and pattern the hull before manufacture begins.
Tube removal
The old tube is removed from the hull. Most RIB tubes are bonded to the hull flange, so removal requires heat and careful lifting to avoid damaging the GRP. The pace of this work is set by the hull condition – a well-bonded old tube on a clean hull takes longer than a tube that has already partially separated.
Hull flange preparation
With the old tube off, the hull bonding surface is cleaned and prepared. Old adhesive is removed. Any flange damage is repaired at this stage. The bonding surface needs to be clean, sound and properly keyed before the new tube goes on.
Fabric cutting
The Orca Hypalon fabric is inspected and laid out. At Ribcollar, tube panels are cut on CNC equipment to the pattern for the boat. CNC cutting gives consistent, accurate panel edges which are essential for the seam preparation and bonding stages that follow.
Seam preparation
All seam edges are prepared by sanding (abrading) and cleaning before adhesive is applied. This is one of the most important stages in tube manufacture. Hypalon forms a mechanical bond – the surface must be properly keyed and clean for the adhesive to work correctly. Skipping or rushing this stage is the main cause of seam failure on poorly built tubes.
Tube assembly
The tube is assembled by hand. All joints are cold bonded using Bostik 2402 adhesive, which is the industry standard for Hypalon tube construction. Wooden circular formers are used to maintain shape and fit internal baffles correctly. The main seam is glued last, before testing.
Leafield inflation valves and pressure relief valves are fitted as standard. Fittings including handles, lifelines, wear patches and rubbing strakes are bonded on as part of the assembly process.
Pressure testing
The finished tube is pressure tested to confirm it is airtight before installation begins. This catches any seam issues before the tube goes onto the hull, when correcting problems is far more straightforward.
Tube fitting
The new tube is marked to show its final position on the hull. Both the tube bonding face and the hull flange receive two coats of adhesive. The tube is then carefully bonded down, working progressively to remove air bubbles and ensure consistent contact along the full flange area.
Assembly and bonding must be done in a warm or heated environment with appropriate moisture control. Temperature and humidity affect adhesive performance and curing time.
Curing and final fit-out
The bond is left to cure fully. Once cured, any additional strakes, hardware and finishing details are fitted. The boat is cleaned down, given a final check and made ready for handover.
6. Fittings and Finish Options
A retube is the best opportunity to specify the protection, layout and fittings that suit the way the boat is used. Standard fit-out on a Ribcollar retube includes Leafield inflation and pressure relief valves, four handles, lifelines and wear patches. Beyond that, the specification can be adjusted to suit the boat and its application.
Rubbing strips and strakes
Standard protection for the tube where it regularly contacts pontoons, quays or other vessels. Available in various profiles.
Cladding
Heavier-duty wear protection up to 3mm for large-area contact zones. Common on military, police and commercial working boats.
Wear patches
Bonded reinforcement patches in high-contact areas. Boarding points, stern areas and any section seeing regular foot or rope contact.
Handles and lifelines
Number and position can be adjusted to suit the boat's use. Commercial and rescue boats typically have more handles at specific positions.
Fairleads and bow fittings
Snubbers, fairleads and bow patches for anchor and towing lines. Extra reinforcement can be added around high-load points.
Custom tube markings
Boat names, numbers and identification markings. Common on commercial, rescue and patrol craft.
7. DIY vs Professional Retube
"Tube in a box" kits are available from some suppliers for owners who want to self-fit. The tube is supplied pre-built and the owner glues it to the hull themselves. This is a legitimate option for some owners but the decision should be made clearly.
Our view: DIY fitting is possible for an experienced, patient owner with the right tools, working environment and preparation. For most owners, the cost difference does not justify the risk of a poor fit. A badly bonded tube is at best an inconvenience and at worst a safety issue. If you are not confident, use a professional shop.
8. How Much Does a RIB Retube Cost?
Cost varies significantly with boat size, tube complexity, fabric grade, fittings and the condition of the existing hull and flange. As a rough orientation, here is what affects price:
- Boat length – more fabric, more labour, more fittings
- Fabric grade – Orca 866 costs more per metre than Orca 828
- Tube layout complexity – multi-tube assemblies, shaped bows and complex collar designs take longer to build
- Fittings specification – additional cladding, strakes, handles, bow protection and custom markings all add to cost
- Hull flange condition – significant flange repair or preparation work adds time and cost
- Pattern availability – boats already on file are quicker and therefore cheaper to process than boats requiring new patterns
The most useful way to understand what your retube will cost is to send us the boat make, model, length and photos. We will provide a written quote based on the actual job rather than a bracket. Contact us at sales@ribcollar.com or call 01935 722988.
A RIB retube is regularly compared against the cost of buying a replacement boat. For a sound hull, a retube at a fraction of new-boat cost is often the better financial decision, particularly where the hull is a well-regarded model that retains value.
9. How Long Does a RIB Retube Take?
A typical full retube takes two to six weeks from the boat arriving with us to handover, depending on workload and the complexity of the job.
| Factor | Effect on lead time |
|---|---|
| Pattern already on file | Quicker – no pattern development time |
| New pattern required | Adds time for assessment and pattern creation |
| Simple tube layout | Faster build |
| Complex collar geometry or multi-tube assembly | Longer build time |
| Hull flange in good condition | Straightforward prep and fit |
| Hull flange repairs required | Adds time for flange work before fitting can start |
| Current workshop schedule | Contact us to confirm current lead times before booking |
The winter months are typically quieter than the spring run-up season. If you are planning a retube ahead of the season, booking early avoids the March–April bottleneck that most retube shops see every year.
10. Frequently Asked Questions – RIB Retubing
Is a RIB retube worth it?
If the hull is structurally sound, yes – in most cases. A retube costs a fraction of a replacement boat and gives the hull another 15–25 years of service life if the new tubes are Hypalon and the specification is right. The calculation is straightforward: if the hull is worth more than the retube cost, it is worth doing.
Can I retube my own RIB?
You can buy a tube as a supply-only item and fit it yourself. Whether you should depends on your skills, tools and patience. Hull flange preparation and adhesive application are the steps most likely to go wrong for a first-timer. A poorly bonded tube is dangerous on the water. If you are not experienced with Hypalon bonding work, use a professional.
What glue is used to retube a RIB?
Bostik 2402 is the industry-standard adhesive for Hypalon RIB tube construction and bonding. It is a contact adhesive applied in two coats to both surfaces before bonding. Correct surface preparation, temperature and moisture control are required for the adhesive to perform as intended.
How long does a RIB retube last?
Orca Hypalon tubes fitted correctly and maintained properly will typically last 15–25 years on a UK-based leisure boat. In hotter climates with more UV exposure, this can be shorter. The main factors affecting longevity are UV exposure, physical wear, storage conditions and whether the boat is maintained regularly.
My RIB has PVC tubes. Should I replace them with Hypalon?
For most owners upgrading at retube time, yes. Hypalon lasts longer, ages better in UV and is repairable by any competent workshop long into its service life. PVC tubes can be replaced with Hypalon without any change to the hull. The cost difference in the tube material itself is usually small relative to the total retube cost.
What is Orca Hypalon?
Orca Hypalon is the trade name for CSM/CR (chlorosulfonated polyethylene / polychloroprene) coated fabric made by Pennel & Flipo in Belgium. DuPont discontinued the original Hypalon brand in 2010. Orca is the industry-standard replacement and is widely referred to in the trade as Hypalon. It is used by most professional retube specialists in the UK.
Do you carry out retubes on commercial and rescue RIBs?
Yes. Ribcollar works with leisure owners, commercial operators, rescue services, professional maritime users and OEM boat builders. Commercial and professional specifications are assessed individually and the fabric grade, reinforcement and fittings are matched to the application and duty.
Ready to Book a RIB Retube?
Send us the boat make, model, length and clear photos of the existing tubes and hull. We will review the job and advise on specification, material grade, fittings and cost. No obligation.
Related Guides and Services
- RIB Retubing Service – Ribcollar's retube process and booking
- RIB Repairs – when repair is the right option
- New Hypalon Tubes – OEM and replacement collar builds
- What material is your RIB tube made from? – Hypalon, PVC and PU
- Orca Hypalon 828 vs 866 – which grade for your boat
- Orca Hypalon colour chart – 828 and 866 colours and finishes
- Tube attachment methods explained
- Contact Ribcollar
